On May 01 2024 I found myself flying out of Melbourne- heading to the Ningaloo reef to swim with the largest fish in the ocean.
Back in the late 1990’s I saw an image of someone swimming with a Whaleshark, and I couldn’t believe how big they were. I thought they were so magical and beautiful, and I promptly put “swimming with the whalesharks’ on my bucket list.
For decades I have talked about them- researched them and found out lots more about their predicament- and am still amazed how little we know about them- where they go- how and where they breed…
I didn’t know how far from everywhere the Ningaloo Reef was…
What was involved in swimming with them…
Just that I was called to go and see them and that I wanted an experience of Wonder.
Melb-Perth – Departed 10:45 arrived 12:55pm. (also lost two hrs for the time difference) Then had to sleep in the Perth Airport until morning flight to Ningaloo….. managed to sell until 4:30am on a bench in the closed coffee shop with about 6 other individuals who also obviously wanted to get the discount flights in the inconvenient times available.. haha. Getting onto the plain to Exmouth, Ningaloo felt like I was in an Indiana Jones movie!
Thursday 2nd March – First day was just wandering around Exmouth – I arrived so early (8am) I couldn’t check into my room at “The Pot Shot Hotel’. It was 33 degrees and HOT!! Very impressed with the bus driver who dropped me from the airport to the hotel. The women up here are hard workers, confident and strong. I wandered around, found a cafe and had a coffee and delicious muffin, found the beach and just basically got all my bearings. Took out my polaroid camera- gave away lots of pics. Ended the day with a steak burger at the pub (right next to my hotel) and crashed by 10pm
Friday 3rd March – The BIG DAY!! Ningaloo Whaleshark Swim.. pick up out the front of the hotel at 7am. …. I woke up every 30 minutes from 4am…like an excited child before Christmas. When I went outside the day was Calm, warm, sunny with perfect conditions- there would be no need to cancel todays trip.
We took an hour..ish.. bus ride to the jetty (driven by the photographer for the day Sian) with Romie sharing wonderful stories and sharing information about Whalesharks…and were ferried out to out ship! I had been so worried I would be seasick and had taken some travacalms early that morning, but the sea was tranquil- so flat… and it turns out unbelievably clear. Honestly it was the perfect day to go out onto the reef. There were X20 of us on the tour- and the crew on the road. Our first adventure was getting a quick snorkelling lesson/ reef exploration. So we were measured up for wetsuits (they were very light and more for protecting you from jellyfish and the sun) by the crew who obviously had a good eye for such things. I felt awkward when being evaluated for my suit- kindly Pete (my snorkel guide for the day) said- I think you will be a large! then it was X20 people trying to gracefully put on our suits, I was already wearing my bathers, so without punching any neighbours I was ready for my first plunge into the water since I had arrived. All self consciousness evaporated as soon as I was in the water – It was like swimming in a warm bath- but unbelievably beautiful. I have snorkelled before so it didn’t take me too long to start exploring with some of the other confident passengers.
Sian took all these photos- I paid an extra $50 for a photographer for the day… and OMG wasn’t it worth it?? Her images are amazing- anyone who booked her got to wear a yellow arm band and she took images of us all through the day and sent them to me that night. I felt so relaxed that I didn’t need my phone or a camera and was just able to enjoy and be present for every moment of this experience. Sian spent entire day in the water- I can’t tell you how impressive she was. gush…. After being assigned to a group We were instructed how to swim with the Whalesharks. Then we left the reef to move further out to where the Whalesharks had been spotted…
Flying above us were the spotter planes (and airlites) who radioed to the skipper (Jordan) when they spotted a whale shark. There was another full boat half a km away from us and they were spotting for them too. These Whalesharks are solitary swimmers mostly- and I loved how everyone there were happily working together (even if they were from rival companies) making sure everyone had an amazing day and experience. We rushed over to where there was a shark and waited for my turn to get into the water. In your group of X10 You make your way to the back of the road and put your flippers on… then your guide (mine was Pete) yelled GO GO GO! and you all jumped off the end and formed a line. Then Sian (the Photographer) who was already in the water tracking the Whaleshark had her hand in the air swam by us and then we all popped out heads in the water and swam along with the shark… when Pete stopped you we grouped together and got back on the boat that had circled ahead of the shard and dropped off the other X10 passengers. So we took it in turns to swim with the Whalesharks, 10 on the road and 10 off at all times…
I am going to write directly from my journal entry as I am writing this blog long after the experience.
‘I’m not sure how to put this experience into words..
The Photographer was an extraordinary woman- she swam for the entire day except for a small break for lunch. She swam holding her underwater bulky camera and took the most beautiful shots – capturing the essence of the day. I couldn’t be happier with the images.
She was tough, efficient and also drove the bus. The women here are so confident- fit and strong and really good at what they do. So impressed… I could learn a thing or two from them.
I swam over X10 jumps into the water- swimming with X3 different Whalesharks! The Snorkel- I got the hang of… some people stopped getting in!! madness! – I lapped up EVERY second… every one. The last few dives were just me, one other passenger and Pete (the guide) and Sian. I love the images of just me and Pete in the water with the whale sharks. The volunteers also got to come swimming with us for the last few as everyone else was exhausted and sat watching from the boat.
We stopped for lunch – which was delicious and I was surprised I could eat. Absolutely no seasickness whatsoever.
The smaller shark in the morning was quick and full of energy – hard to keep up with for long periods of time. but at the end of the day It was an effortless swim with the really big male. Just cruising along with this magnificent creature was delightful. I had my hands by my side and just slowly kicking my flippers to keep alongside him. its one of the most surreal feelings I have ever had. Just beautiful.
The crew kept saying- I can’t believe how beautiful the conditions are today… usually people are lucky to get to swim with one whale shark a couple of times- let alone in such clear water.
Buzzing is hardly the work to describe the feeling of wonder. The shimmering skin underwater with the sun beams through the water… the way they move…. the size!!
I’ll stop rambling – but it was beyond my expectations. Perfect. Just remarkable.
I had twice as many images to share… I’ll never get sick of looking at these. Swimming multiple times with three different Whalesharks. The first was 6metres the middle 9metres and last was about 12metres. He was HUGE!!
The last swim of the day, just me and Pete my guide and Sian the photographer- who swam underneath us all and captured this amazing shot. I sat on the boat going back to shore sad that it was all finishing… inspired to start a new collection based on this trip—capturing the raw beauty and delicate balance of such a unique landscape. It’s heartbreaking to think that these magnificent creatures are endangered, and protecting them should be an urgent priority. The world would be a much emptier place without these beautiful beings gliding through the ocean.